这两家大隐于市的博物馆,你也许会喜欢

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佛罗伦萨这座小城最不缺的可能就是博物馆了,一张Firenze Card(佛罗伦萨卡,可以在72小时内免购票、免排队进入72家博物馆)就可以看出这里有多少大大小小的博物馆。更别提著名的乌菲兹美术馆和美术学院博物馆了。
今天我们不提这些大咖级别的博物馆,而是看看两家大隐于市的博物馆,游客极少,却值得一看。

圣弥额尔教堂博物馆
(Museo di Orsanmichele)

圣弥额尔教堂 (Orsanmichele) 位于佛罗伦萨最熙熙攘攘的大街Via Calzaiuoli(大教堂到领主广场之间的购物街)中段。教堂名字的意思是「圣米迦勒的厨房花园」。
这座教堂的历史用“戏剧化”来形容最适合不过:初建成时是个谷物市场;过了几十年,改建为修道院,后来又成教堂,兼作办公室和谷仓;如今是一座教堂和游览景点。找到这座教堂最容易不过——显著特征是外墙周围有14个壁龛,每个壁龛中有一尊或几尊雕塑。比如四位殉教的圣徒、施洗者约翰、耶稣与圣托马斯等作品。
当然,现在我们能看到的都是复制品,原作存放在教堂的博物馆中。这个博物馆就是原先教堂楼上的谷仓。这14尊雕塑中,多纳泰罗的「圣乔治」在1892年被放置在了巴杰罗美术馆,以一尊青铜复制品取代,如今这尊复制的青铜雕塑也成了文物,取而代之的是大理石复制品。而原本放着「耶稣与圣托马斯」的壁龛则被多纳泰罗的「图卢斯的圣路易斯」所取代(原作保存在圣十字教堂博物馆)。
圣弥额尔教堂博物馆只有每周一开放,10:00 – 17:00。免费进入。

艺术界的007」之家
Rodolfo Siviero被称为“艺术界的007”,他致力于寻找并收复在“二战”期间被盗的意大利艺术珍品,从1944年开始这项事业到1983年逝世,他收复了意大利各个时代的珍贵文物,并保存在他在佛罗伦萨居住的房子Casa museo di Rodolfo Siviero里,在他去世前,将这所房子连同里面的文物都捐献给了托斯卡纳大区。这座房子就在老桥边,也许你从它面前走过了无数遍,却不知道里面有个艺术博物馆吧。

地址:Lungarno Serristori, 1-3, Firenze;紧邻阿诺河南岸,从老桥南端向上游走1km左右。
博物馆免费进入,但一周只开放三天。
开馆时间:
周日和周一:10:00-13:00;九月-次年六月的周六:10:00-18:00;七月-八月的周六:10:00-14:00,15:00-19:00;公共假日闭馆。

ENGLISH

If there is one thing Florence is not lacking, that is a large of number of museums. One Firenze card allows you to visit 72 museums in town in 72 hours. From this information alone you realize the sheer number of museums in this small city. No need to mention the very well know Galleria degli Uffizi and the Accademia.No need to add details about these big shots, but there are museums in city centre of Florence that are not crowded by tourists, while they are definitely worth a visit.

MUSEO DI ORSANMICHELE

The church of Orsanmichele lies on the busiest street of Florence: Via Calzaiuoli, between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria. The name Orsanmichele means “the kitchen garden of San Michele” in Tuscan dialect.
“Dramatic” would be the appropriate adjective to describe the history of Orsanmichele church. It used to be a grain market when just built. After decades it became a monastery, then a church, working as an office and a granary at the same time. Now, it is back to being a church and also a tourist site. It is rather easy to spot it on the crowded street: it shows 14 niches caved on the outer walls around the church, in each niche standing a statue. For instance, St. John the Baptist, Christ and St. Thomas, or Four saints.
Due to the protection of precious arts, what we see on the walls now are replicas. The original works are kept inside the museum of Orsanmichele, where the granary used to be. Except one: “St. George” by Donatello, being replaced by a bronze copy in 1892. The original is placed in Bargello museum. While the statue of Christ and St. Thomas was replaced by Donatello’s St. Louis of Toulouse, now in Santa Croce museum.
The museum of Orsanmichele only opens on Monday, from 10am to 5pm, free entry.

THE HOUSE OF “THE 007 OF ART”
Rodolfo Siviero was called “the 007 of art”, because of his effort in recovering artworks stolen from Italy during the World War II. From 1944 until his decease in 1983, he had been working intensively to successfully artwork retrieving. Everything was kept in his house in Florence, which he donated to Tuscan Region before he passed away. Every work was maintained in good condition. This house, Casa Museo di Rodolfo Siviero, stands right next to Arno river, few steps from Ponte Vecchio. You might have walked right past it without realizing how many remarkable artworks are there.

Address: Lungarno Serristori, 1-3, Firenze
The museum is free to enter, but only opens 3 days in a week.
Opening time:
Sunday and Monday: 10am-1pm; Saturday from September to June: 10am-6pm; Saturdays in July and August: 10am-2pm; closed if the opening day happens to be public holidays.

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